Catania – an authentic Sicilian gem

Harsh, dirty, run-down, graffiti-infested, and yet, at times, a typical Sicilian city, Catania will give you that Italian tip-of-the-hill kick with zero elegance yet sheer authenticity, just like a bitter, hot espresso down your throat while standing.

Indeed, if you’re expecting a classic old Italian town, keep searching. Catania is anything but classy. In most parts of the centre, the streets are dark and dusty, with ridiculously uneven and narrow pavements, rubbish lying around in some corners, faded crossings or none, and graffiti on most of the walls. And please don’t tell me it’s street art. I live near Tel Aviv Street art is part of the culture.

But in Catania, the graffiti screams vandalism. It’s ugly, random, and covers even rare old buildings which otherwise could become hidden gems. It takes a dark, mean soul to spray on such beautiful architecture. Worse yet, it takes a dysfunctional police to allow such atrocities.

Strolling around Catania, you’ll hardly see parents walking with young children or toddlers. Not surprising, as this place would be too rough and dangerous for them.

The vibes

Treacherous dogs off the leash are not rare, and drivers are ruthless. They’ll probably stop and let you reach safety if you start crossing. But crossing a road always feels like a gamble. Traffic lights? Not here.

And the people often seem unhappy and impatient, especially if you dare not to speak their language. I can’t blame them. I wouldn’t feel like smiling with such a dark, gloomy surrounding around me.

The magic of Catania

But don’t be dismayed by my descriptions.

Catania is worth visiting. You need to know what to expect. If a picturesque Italian town full of green spots is what you’ve had in mind, you’ll be in for a disappointment. As a general rule, for a better life – don’t expect.

Catania is not classic. It’s chaotic, messy, run-down, and sometimes unwelcoming, especially if you don’t speak Italian (even then, you may struggle with the Sicilian dialect). And the drivers are reckless.

But if you want to get a taste of the real, day-to-day life in Sicily, look no further than Catania. This town is genuine, unmasked, revealing itself to you in full colours, without any filters or sugarcoating. Stare into its sheer beauty and genuine ugliness with no fear. Shed that tourist persona at the airport and become Italian, or better yet, Catanese, during your stay, and you’ll start enjoying Catania the way I did.

Some reasons to love Catania

A few miles from the airport, Catania is also an excellent base for exploring attractions in Eastern Sicily, like Mount Etna (a must-visit), Taormina and Siracusa.

It has an impressive, fascinating historical centre with some of the finest Baroque buildings on the island.

If you’re a food lover, you will devour Catania. It offers a wide range of eateries – Italian restaurants with local pasta plates and more. Countless pizzerias, paninerie, wine bars, pasticcerie and more. Plenty of cheap espresso and other kinds of coffee. Many fish and seafood places. 

Most of the food is fresh and tasty. I haven’t fallen victim to any tourist traps. It’s straightforward to avoid them – eat where the locals do, where it looks good, busy and with high turnover. 

And the markets… oh boy. You will have a field day there if you’re a market lover like me. The famous La Pescheria, Catania Fish Market, is tiny but worth visiting, especially if you’re a fish lover and seafood. Overlooking it are a few inexpensive eateries offering fresh fish, seafood and other products straight from the market. Keep walking, and you’ll discover lovely restaurants offering local dishes, stalls and shops with fruit & veg under a canopy of umbrellas, cheese and more.

And the central market, a few streets to the north, is massive. This is Catania’s primary market, home to many fruit & veg stalls.

Now over to you!

Have you been to Sicily before? Please share your experience or travel plans in the comments!