And when you run along the shore, you see other runners of all ages and fishermen sitting for hours by the wall with their long rods and a buzzy café full of people chilling, watching the sea.
And there are many old fishing boats alongside modern ones and a few luxury ones swaying in the water.
And there are big old fishnets scattered around and large rectangular plastic boxes with an assortment of fish, seafood, crabs and other marine creatures for sale. And though I can smell them from afar.
The old and the new. The boundaries are blurry… Youngsters on electric bikes, mini-tractors and electric scooters crossing the oldest seaport in the world. Arabs, Jews, tourists, young and old. That’s the spirit of Jaffa.
If you spend a day there, you are bound to hear the chant of the moazin, summoning up faithful Muslims for prayer.
Head South, and you can run barefoot along the Southernmost golden beaches of Jaffa, and soon you’ll find yourself in Bat Yam.
Make your way north, and you’ll enjoy the spectacular Tel Aviv promenade with some of the beautiful sandy beaches this restless city is famous for. You can walk, run or cycle, and you can get to Hertzelia, about 15km to the north in one stretch, with hardly any gaps or barriers.
Hungry?
No worries, Jaffa’s got you covered with a vibrant culinary scene, a fusion of European haute cuisine and fresh local food. There are buzzy bars and restaurants and not-to-be-missed humous eateries. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, try Knafe, hot sahlab or malabi, a sweet and creamy guilty pleasure Jaffa is known for.
If you like antiques or need some inspiration, don’t miss the flea market with its never-ending stores (and do remember to bargain!), and peep into some art galleries and furniture stores around it.
And needless to say, Old Jaffa, with its charming old alleys is a must.
Consider booking your stay in Jaffa. There are various lovely Air B&B apartments and a few pleasant hotels there. This way, you’ll get into the Jaffa state of mind instead of worrying about transport, parking, etc. (On Fridays, Saturdays and holidays with nice weather, everyone flocks to Jaffa. Not fun.)
Enjoy…